Environment and China's role - when the dust settles

After a great refreshing week in Shanghai and Hangzhou I am now back in the deep cold of Haerbin. It seemed to have dropped 20 degrees since I left and it probably didn’t help that in Shanghai and Hangzhou I enjoyed sunny 70 degree weather. Today was especially depressing because the smog seems to have crept in during the day… it is 5pm and already completely dark and the air seems to be thick and soupy. On my way to class just an hour ago I had to check my glasses for condensation, finding none I realized that the whole world had turned into a hazy almost hallucinogenic scene. Were we only to add a soundtrack composed of songs like the Door’s Riders of the Storm, or Pink Floyd’s Comfortably Numb it could have fit nicely into a Chinese version of a 90s stoner movie. Unfortunately I live in reality, most of the time, and had to face the reality that my eyes were slightly burning from either the fact that it did feel like I was drunk or stoned, or that in fact the haze was a damaging toxin… Either way not a pretty picture, and I really shouldn’t give you such a bad picture of Haerbin. Most days are not like this, in fact the past week has been cold but bearable – sunny with a light breeze (which apparently helped with the pollution). But it did scare me a bit. It makes you wonder why humans are incapable of realizing the devastating affects that we’ve had on this earth – even when it is right before our eyes and affecting our health and wellbeing. For China’s case perhaps people are just too rapped up in the rapid change that is taking place, too absorbed in the ‘work or die’ philosophy, not a bad philosophy really, but anything that is taken to an extreme seems to end badly. China also claims that it is just following the same path as other nations including the US, which is partly true. But does that exempt them from the present, where climate change are endangering thousands of species, lives and the world as we know it? The past, present and future need to be seen as a whole piece that all affect each other and be seen as connected. We were taught in school to learn from the past, make sure autrocities such as the Great Wars never happened again, that the Hollocaust would not repeat. Yet our leaders have done a very poor job of doing this.

For China’s part they claim they are following our past – they are industrializing and in the past， industrializing countries have developed at the expense of the environment and human rights. They look to the past and say: see, you did it, we are only following your example. But examples show both want others have done and the consequences of them, they show both good and bad and we can learn off of the whole story of the past, not just take it as an example to follow but an example not to follow. Take the dust bowl during the great depression – caused by over-farming, a certain obsession with available cheap land and the prospect to make money and a certain amount of government support for this – coupled with a major drought it led to one of the largest attacks on mother earth and worsened an economic environment that turned into the Great Depression. It was said that dust from the Midwest was being blown across America and the Atlantic and could be found all across Europe. Oddly enough China has its own share of dust that has slowly turned from nuisance to a health threat. Dust from the Gobi dessert, which is the fastest growing dessert in the world, has reached San Francisco and Portland. While this phenomenon cannot be solely blamed on the Chinese many of China’s environmental problems and linked health problems have been caused by overfarming, overgrazing and a widespread destruction of forests. Some of the same causes of the Dust Bowl in America.

The government is paying attention, and perhaps the greatest positive impact has been the Olympics which cast a broad light on China and its affect on the world. In hopes of stemming any large dust-storm that would have disgraced China’s leaders during the Olympics, reforestation projects were a major part of the great clean-up of Beijing. But these projects must be sustained. And they cannot only focus on making things look better for an international audience. Perhaps more pressing is that dust from the Gobi dessert is combining with toxins from China’s great industrial expansion. Toxins like cadmium, lead and even arsenic are catching a ride on the flying dust that enters Beijing, and has created major health problems in areas as far away as Korea. The problem has been so pressing that Korea now has 5 seasons one being marked by huge dust-storms that create a veil over the sky. It sounds not too far off from what I have experienced in Haerbin. Although it seems to only occur once a week it still scares me to think of how it will be in the next 10 years if growth continues in China and they continue following the ‘path’ of other industrialized countries. This excuse I find very troubling and extremely pointless. China has developed faster than any other country in the world and has the largest population in the world. How can it be claimed that they are following the path of others? I don’t buy it and my hope is that China will also realize the untruths of this statement. And there are reasons why they may soon do this: one is because of the international pressure to recognize and work toward ending environmental and human rights abuses. China will receive more and more international scrutiny as it develops and attempts to be recognized as a developed country.

The Olympics was a great example of how China reacts to interest. In hoping to dispel public opinion that China is a nation out of control – unable to control a economy gone wild and the threatening environmental issues – China spent millions in renovating Beijing and reversing years of environmental neglect. The hope is that this created a sustained culture that views the environment within the goal of development.

In a years time Shanghai will host the World’s Expedition with a focus on the environment and conservation efforts. I recently visited the Urban planning museum in Shanghai where there was a three story shrine to the planning and projected future projects for the Expedition. While most of it was propaganda aimed at creating national pride and what I think is a false sense of accomplishment (again here accomplishment of economy trumping all other affects of that economic growth), some of the plans were very impressive and the attention given to green buildings and sustainability were refreshing in a media environment that only centers on China’s growing environmental problems. Over one hundred years ago another city in the Midwest hosted the Worlds Expedition and was immediately catapulted to the status of one of the World’s great cities. Hopefully Shanghai will show the world a new China that recognizes both the successes and failures of the past, understands the present age and looks to the future to create a new path for development. If China and it’s growing economic centers continue to compare themselves only to the path of other industrialized nations China will be limited by that definition both psychologically and physically. However if they create they’re own path and own up to that path I think some really positive changes in the way we view development could take place.

As I sit in my dorm room I can see a devastating future just by rubbing my hand across my desk. I cleaned just a few days ago and already there is a layer of dust that has accumulated from the outside air. When will the dust accumulate to a point where there is no reversing it? My hope is that all countries will realize we don’t want to wait for that day, and that all of us have a role to play. China has the opportunity to show the world that it's not afraid to make a new path for development, one where environment and industrialization are not seen as opposing forces.

Beauty is found in HangZhou

i'm in Hangzhou a beautiful city just south of Shanghai. Hongzhou holds a special place in my heart for a number of reasons. I first became interested in the Chinese language and culture because I met Hong and Daquan at the Teashop in Evanston. Hong is actually from Hongzhou and told me stories of the beautiful scenery and women that supposedly road bicycles down the car-less lanes wearing traditional long flowing dresses. Hangzhou is along a man-made lake that was built by one of the dynastic emperors. small islands and man-made platforms are connected by beautiful rainbow shaped bridges. Mountains look down over the lake and the numerous small banana shaped boats that slowly make there way through the completely motionless water. small temples and pagodas are spotted throughout the mountainside. It's an amazing place that i can never seem to completely get my mind or heart around. That being said it has changed drastically in the last 3 years. My first visit to Hangzhou was three years ago. After a summer in Taiwan I spent 2 weeks traveling around China. Because of the stories I had heard about Hangzhou, I made it a priority to visit. After staying with a professor from Nanjing that I had met at Northwestern I traveled to Hangzhou on a 3 hour train ride. I remember being crammed into a overcrowded train, greatly afraid that my belongings would all be stolen, but feeling content that I was traveling on my own through a vast country towards the place where my interest in China originated. I don't quite remember how I made it from the Hangzhou train station to a hotel but i think somehow the professor in Nanjing had a friend who owned a business in Hangzhou and he/she arranged an employee to help me out. So two employees, one a quirky man, the other a quiet, conservative, young and beautiful looking women (the kind Hong had told me about), helped find me a very affordable hotel and then introduced me to some of there other employees. After that I somehow convinced the woman employee to get lunch with me - I insisted that she give the recommendation and I could pay, however I think she ended up paying....
The next day her and I spent the whole day walking around the West Lake. We went to one of the largest Buddhist temples in the world, ate street food and Hangzhou delicacies, took a ride on a gondola type boat, browsed the silk and pearl markets.... crossed over rustic bridges, old Chinese architectural relics, and crossed into small tea-shops. we had lunch in the mountains above the city with a small farmer who served us home grown vegetables and home-raised chicken. We drank LongJin tea (the tea that is grown in the area) while looking down on the lake and the city below. Basically had one of the most romantic days of my life with a complete stranger who I couldn't fully communicate with fully. We spoke over my broken Chinese and her Hangzhou accented Chinese. She explained the history and significance of the temples we visited and i tried to give her stories into my life. The next morning I left for Shanghai and never saw her again....
Now I'm back in Hangzhou under very different circumstances. I'm staying with another Fulbrighter - named jacob. and am a little more independant. Hangzhou has also changed, no longer rustic, all has transformed into a clean and well planned Chinese city that has notes of Europe, Chinese imperialism and overall is absolutely beautiful. The gardens are well kept and small shops poke out between the trees and shrubs. While it has lost some of its untouched feeling it has become even more beautiful but more expensive. Cars have taken over the bicycles - one of the few annoying pieces of development - but the islands are more accessible and the traditional Chinese structures have been re-built or restored. There are now dozens of houses that serve 'farm-house food', but do not live up to their precursors - which were literally farmers houses that then began serving food to those that passed by. While some of the uniqueness of this experience is now gone, it is a natural trade-off for beautification of the area. So despite the changes I would still say it is my favorite place in China and I encourage you to come visit - I will take you on a tour!

A sidenote on Shanghai

After my last post I began to think that maybe I shouldn’t be so harsh on Chinese consumerism. And I don’t want to give my family, friends in America this tainted view of China. After-all I came here because of my love for the Chinese people and culture that I found in America and my previous trips to Taiwan and China. This is a culture that is still living it is just being infiltrated with a western culture of individualism and consumerism as well. All of which are not necessarily bad. I think I portray them in a negative way because I fear that the culture I love will disappear with westernization, and that the mistakes of industrial nations will be repeated by the Chinese. In a lot of ways this is true – China has polluted every river-way and water-way in the east and filled in the largest canyon in the world, all in the name of economic might. At the same time they have lifted millions out of poverty. However I don’t believe that every country has to follow the same industrialized path that America and Europe did. After-all, it was all an experiment that was not completely a success – especially considering the Armageddon like predictions that some scientists are having for our world. But because of our mistakes and path to industrialization, China now has an excuse for its disregard for environment and human rights violations. While the excuse ‘we’re just following the path you did’ leaves a sour taste in you mouth, you can’t exactly blame them for wanting to move forward at any cost. And so the consumerism that I complain or worry about is just imported from the west, so in a way it’s partly our fault!

First Impressions of Shanghai

I arrived in Shanghai late on Friday night. I came with 4 other Haerbin students, all looking forward to getting back into a semi-western looking city. While Haerbin is very western in many ways there are some things that I’m missing about the western world: like sit-down toilets or public toilets that down smell like they’re infested with small gremlins… and some semblance of traffic control…

Well at any rate I’m in Shanghai and its pretty impressive. Masses of people, consumerism to the max… A city outrageously proud of its history and its people but at the same time obsessed with whatever is new and trendy. Shanghai’s history is marred in segregation. During the 20s and 30s the British empire constructed international zones including a British, French and American concession. Shanghai was far from a Chinese city and actually had a China town where Westerners could go for Chinese products and food. During the rise of Nazism in Europe, Jews flocked to Shanghai. There is still a small European Jewish settlement in Shanghai and numerous Jewish Synagogues. After the Mao take-over in 1949 the foreign control and influence vanished, and Shanghai was labeled as the epitome of negative Western influence that needed to be reversed. And it’s quite easy to understand this negative reaction to the west. Chinese in Shanghai were treated mostly like dogs or sub-human species. There culture and social customs were considered backwards. 50 years later a new very proud Shanghai culture has arisen and the architectural relics from the past are being reconstructed and the history is being rewritten – including the history of the international settlements . We went to an Urban planning museum yesterday and there was absolutely no mention of persecution, segregation and conflict that has marred Shanghai’s past – both during international settlements and Mao’s re-Chinification ( I made up that word). Everything is painted as ‘as it was supposed to be’, and there is immense pride in the future development of the city. It’s exciting but also a bit terrifying at the pace of development and the movement of consumerism. While it drives economies (as in the US) it also seems to promise a populace a world that is not real. Everything can be bought, including happiness, beauty and people. The world is a fairyland and all you need to do to take part in it is spend money. It will be interesting to be here for the next year and I’m hoping I will get a deeper understanding of the culture and people – for right now I think I only see the very outer layer of Shanghai social fabric.

DanDong to DaLuDao Part II

After our hiking experience overlooking the Korean border we hopped on a boat that took us out to an island between N. Korea and China called DaLuDao. Apparently the name ‘Lu’ which means deer comes from the shape of the island which resembles that of a deer. We arrived at a fairly desolate island only to find a very western Japanese run hotel. Completely out of place. It’s like finding yourself stranded on a deserted island (think ‘Outcast’) only to find a complete hotel resort with a full staff waiting to take your orders. Besides some of the locals living on the island we were the only ones there. And the hotel was completely ours. Meals were provided and a warm personal shower – something that can be hard to find. These comforts however only lasted a short while as the power was turned off to the whole island during the middle of the first night we were there. I realized this while I tried to find the bathroom at 4am (among verbal attacks at the light switch) – I’m not sure if I actually did make it there…. That same night a bonfire was prepared in our honor on the beach. We had simply asked a local business to prepare this for us, and expected a simple bonfire where we could sit around talk, share stories, etc. Instead they prepared a rave-like beach party. I walked along the beach hoping to breathe in some cool sea air and listen to the waves. But as I got closer to the bonfire location all I could hear was the massive pounding of unregulated base. The bonfire party was equipped with a full DJ, karaoke and a massive fire that reminded me of the last seen in Star Wars Return of the Jedi where they cremate Darth Vader and then go party with the little fury teddy-bear like creatures – yes it was that weird. But, after we got over the initial shock of it all, it turned out to be an ok night. We watched some ridiculously large and cheap Chinese fireworks and drank some especially disgusting locally brewed beer. At the end of the night I took a long walk to the water and was surprised to find how far the ocean had receded in just the last few hours. Because the beach is so flat when the tide is out you have to walk 10-15minutes across warm quick-sand-like beach. It’s actually very nice foot therapy.
The next day 5 other students and I rented three bicycles made for two and traveled around the island played in tide pools, captured crabs (only to let them go again) and talked with some fishermen who had spent their whole lives living, fishing and surviving on the island. I met an old couple who had three kids who now all have their own families on the island. The couple’s house was atop a cliff overlooking the sea where two dozen small wooden fishing boats were anchoring. They lived mostly off of what they were growing, raising or catching: Fish, chickens, and a beautiful garden!! The garden reminded me of home. (by the way right now I’m listening to NPR ‘e-town’ and they’re honoring JFK Jr. and talking about his conservation efforts, especially the Hudson and E. Coast fishing ecosystem, his group ‘river keepers’ etc. it’s sounds pretty amazing and is about saving placed like the island DaLuDao that I’m writing about).
On that note I’m going to get going. Need to study and I’ve been spending too much time reading the nytimes and writing emails. I’ll forget my Chinese! Seems like I’ve been forgetting my English too, as there are words that just don’t seem to be there anymore…
p.s. Ate some amazing blue crabs that reminded me of Maryland!! No old bay seasoning though
Also pictures of DanDong can be found at http://picasaweb.google.com/sam.pickerill

Travels to Dandong Part 1

It feels like ages since I last wrote, and I think it has been almost two weeks now, but the days are so packed that I can’t keep track of which day is which and will likely not be able to remember what has passed in the last two weeks. This is probably a strength and a weakness: the ability/tendency to live and forget that we have lived. I’ll start with our trip to Dandong. Dandong is a Chinese city that is just across the river from North Korea. To get there we boarded a crowded overnight sleeper train where we were joined by a group of bus drivers all traveling to Dandong to fetch there Buses. They quickly showed us how to travel in style. Riding on a train in China is like going out for a picnic: food, drinks and loud conversations. In my first encounter with one of the bus drivers (pictured left) I received a welcoming hello followed by ‘wow you speak Chinese’ then immediately followed by a beer. The whole corridor that lined our stacked beds there were family, friends, and even strangers sitting against windows eating a wide range of Chinese snacks and washing it down with beer. The only hiccup in this moving carnival of fun was when the train stopped to let off/take on more passengers. These stops were followed by a groan as doors to the bathroom area were opened and the sitting stench slowly crept into our living area. Bathrooms on trains are a hole in the floor (more or less) and people have very poor aim (understandably especially after drinking), when the train is not moving there is no air flow to carry the smells away. After a night of festivities we arrived in Dondong. I was promised that if I’m ever on Bus 102 in Haerbin the fare will be free. We said goodbye through smiles and waves and took off our tour of Dandong.
We ended up spending only a few hours in Dandong and instead took a bus to the coast of China and North Korea where we hiked a small mountain overlooking the Chinese/Korean border. We were greeted by groups of local men scrabbling up the mountain side. They claimed that this was an everyday occurrence and that at this particular season there were hoards of nuts to be found, picked and consumed. We also ran into a number of small Buddhist temples that seemed to contain a modicum of life and perhaps even religious practice. I always have a hard time understanding the state of religion in China. Does it exist? And if it does are there remnants of the old traditions that were all but destroyed during the cultural revolution? What are the interests of those that have come back to it? Really its tuff analyze too much because what do I really know about Buddhism and Religion in China? Nonetheless it’s hard not to see it all as cultural tourism. During the Olympics China’s 40some ethnic groups were displayed in their ‘traditional’ dress. A celebration of the uniqueness of humankind seems odd coming from communist party that once sought to destroy it all. A good step forward, but was the purpose to play on the imaginations of the viewers? To sell the world a dream about China’s openness to non-Han populations and promote the reproduction of these ‘traditions’ for tourist purposes. When we walked up the mountain near the Chinese Korean border we were met by women handing out prayer strings to tie to the trees, and then teaching those willing how to prey. A beautiful moment, until you realize that they are hostile to those who refuse to participate. Why? Because they expect pay for service. Something is lost in this transaction. It become impersonal. It’s hard to say who’s at fault here, the complicated history and the recent surge of economic thinking and power in China make it impossible to point fingers, and perhaps I’m just being naïve about religious tradition, but it does make one feel a little disheartened.

I'll have to write another post on the rest of the trip, which was very enjoyable.....